First time I met Ryan he was glassing a board that was headed to Japan the next day. We were in a small, windowless room in the back corner of a warehouse. I could hear the neighboring furniture makers sanding table-tops and turning legs.

Fast forward five years to Rincon. One of those golden afternoons in the cove. A buddy hands me board- a vibrantly green patterned board wrapped in blue rails that looks to have popped out of the shaping room backwards. A V-Bowls. I quickly shoulder-hop a set off a rail-digging grom, point the pig-nosed craft towards the beach and brace for a bottom turn. The rest is all trim and bliss.

Now, equipped with a bit of empathy for Lovelace’s creations (and a camera), I’m fascinated by the way others navigate the unique lines and dimensions of his boards. From Trevor Gordon’s section-making postures to Troy Mothershead’s hard-driving rail bends, Ryan’s sculptures are liberated by their operators- fostering spontaneity and smiles all the way to the freeway.

Donnie Hedden is a photojournalist based out of Summerland, CA. Rincon is his front yard, a 35mm 80’s dive camera, the Nikonos V, is his tool of choice. He teaches media arts at a local high school and rides any style of surf craft under the sun.

Find more of Lovelace’s surf crafts here: www.rlovelace.com
Find more of Hedden’s imagery & words here: www.dhedden.com